Remember there is no shipping on Monday as we pay our respect to our service men who gave their life for this country.
Author: Bobs Tropical Plants (Page 2 of 3)
Below is what I imported this week. They will be on the site soon.
corydoras sterbai – sterbai cory
Hyphessobrycon amandae – Ember Tetra
Hemigrammus rhodostomus – Rummy-nose tetra
Neocaridina davidi – Cherry Shrimp
Neocaridina davidi – Fire Shrimp
Puntius denisonii – Redline Barb – Roseline Shark
Thiara cf. winter
these will be in the store for sale shortly.
Most of the work is done on the updated store. I still have some small tweaks and fine tuning to do. Though right now my hosting company says the email server is behind so there will be a delay in any messages being sent to you. They said it should be caught up soon. I am really liking wordpress.
The store will be off line for updates tonight. please check back tomorrow.
Welcome to the new front page of my website. I have been unhappy with the old one for some time. I finally made the switch to wordpress and so far I been very happy. Look forward to more updates.
My Fish Room for 2014
You can click on the articles to see the history of my fish room. These are changes made for 2014. I spend 2013 making the room more efficient. I still have some minor adjustments to be made.
Most people will spend hours cleaning glass making everything look perfect before taking pictures. These pictures are from after a day of shipping.
One of the major changes I made was to my central system. To save on power I ran new 1inch pvc lines to all the tanks and installed a smaller pump. My central system came with a 2hp pump. I downgraded before to a 1.5hp pump. I am now using a Iwaki MD40RLXT pump. A lot less water being pumped though the tank but also uses a lot less power. The old pump is still hooked up so i can use the uv system if its ever needed. I also installed a new trickle system for the bio tower.
Trickle system powered by a small pump in the sump.
These 3 tanks have fish in them but mostly for plants.
Top sections are for plants and smaller groups of fish. Middle tanks are slowly having the plants removed. The middle tanks all hold fish. The bottom row are for crays snails and plants.
Got a few packages of shipping boxes in. Middle tank has frogs and snails. Bottom tank has crayfish.
Some how I missed getting a new picture of the 240.
You can see the rows of tanks here. These are all on auto water change system like before. Though what I like best is the power. All the power lines run above the tanks. I have 3 circuits for them. 1st is always on. For the most part isnt used but there incase I need to add heaters. 2nd is the timer. Since most of these are all fish for the most part none are on the timer. All plant tanks are on the timer so I dont have to worry about them getting enough light. 3rd is what I like the most. The 3rd is on a light switch. This way I can turn the lights on and off in the whole fish room.
A new thing I been working on is organization. All the tanks are now numbered with the white board I am slowly filling in. I also adding the name of the fish/inverts/plants on the tank as well.
The 20 gallon longs on the ends still have some work to do. I am going to add some kind of clip on light. I havent got them yet so it makes it a little hard to see into them.
So thats what I have up so far. I had plans for a row of 20 gallon long inbetween the 40 gallons and the other row but I like having the open space. I dont want it to be cramped. I am going to add a rack of 20 longs though against the wall between the wall of 40s and the other row. There also might be another rack of 3 or 6 more 20 gallons for plants. The rest of the pictures are just random live stock i got pictures of.
Red Devil Crabs
Some new endlers… got them as chilli endlers though looks like some culling needs to happen.
Danio Erythromicron with corydoras habrosus – preping the tank for the next tank of nerites. I move them around to kept them fed.
cherry shrimp and Boraras naevus
red lyretail swordtail
Taiwan Blue Guppies
Caridina cf. propinqua orange
tangerine tiger shrimp
Apistogramma cacatuoides with Stiphodon atropurpureus
sids – Yasuhikotakia Sidthimunki
chinese zebra shrimp
Indian Whitebanded Shrimp with albino bristlenose pleco
Thai micro crabs
Orange Poso Rabbit Snails
chart done by: oo7genie @aquariacentral.com
This is a chart for each available dechlorinator that he could fine. What its effective for, as well as how much of each was needed to dose 10g of tank water, in order to calculate a price comparison per dose, as opposed to per bottle.
In freshwater tanks water changes should be done weekly in most cases. While in most cases 10%-15% is fine i prefer 50%-75%+. In larger tanks that can be a lot of water. Using buckets is no fun at all and can cause people to be disinterested in their tank.
To save time and effort I suggest a water change system. Python water change system along with several others hooks up to a sink or hose. I prefer a hose leading outside. I use my old tank water for the grass, trees and garden. The only problem with these type of system is they are designed to leave the water on to create suction. By draining outside or to lower drain you are able to turn the water off thus save water.
Another option and my personal favorite is to use a pump attached to the hose. This eliminates the need for the water to be kept on like the python. It also drains the tank faster. When you have many tanks like me this can be invaluable.
For future fish geeks/nerds that end up with fish rooms an auto or semi auto water change system is the way to go. There are countless ways to set up an auto/semi water change system. If you need help fining info on some please email but a quick google search will do wonders.
his might seem simple but can save your self some money long term. I suggest prime/safe when you declore your water. You might pay a little more per oz but a little goes a long ways. Safe which is the dry forum of prime can save you even more and not very hard to dose.
Directions: Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. This removes approximately 1 mg/L ammonia, 4 mg/L chloramine, or 5 mg/L chlorine. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.
Typically other products take 1 capful per 10 gallons. I have bought the 2L bottles in the past. Even with all my tanks it seems to last forever.
- Published on Wednesday, 28 May 2014 05:51
A quarantine tank is important part of fish keeping. They are simple to set up and maintain. They help prevent the spread of disease, pests and parasites. I personally quarantine everything and would never put anything into my system without quarantining it first. It’s not worth the risk of your other livestock.
No matter where you get livestock for your system it’s a good idea to use a quarantine tank (QT). The livestock can look perfectly fine but stress from shipping or even bringing them home from a local store can stress them. Just like in people with stress it can weaken them and allow something to pop up that was being fought off otherwise. It’s also possible that the disease or parasite just hasn’t fully develop yet. If something does develop having them in a smaller QT also saves on the price of medication. This way you are only treating the sick fish as well. With plants it’s possible to have eggs or snails or other hitchhikers you may not want. With a QT you control what goes in the tank.
Often many people set up a QT but just don’t give the time needed to make sure everything is safe. With plants there is very low chance of spreading disease. Washing them off and doing a plant dip with potassium permanganate can typically keep all snails and pests out of the tank. 2-3 weeks in a QT after the last snail or pest if you find any should be safe. The longer the better but that is typically fine. Inverts such as snails and shrimp have a very low chance of spreading anything to any fish. Same with plants 2-3 weeks in QT is typically plenty of time. Fish are by far the most important thing to QT and should always be QT’d for 1-2 months after the last sign of infection or parasite. With some expensive fish I know some will even QT their new fish 3 months. For example you get a fish with ich. After treatment and the last sign of ich you start the clock over. Like I always say better safe then sorry.
Picking the right size of a tank is also important. Since it’s only going to be a short term home many can get away with a 10-20 gallon QT. in some cases even a 5 gallon will work. It really depends on what size of fish and how many you will be QTing at once. If you are getting a lot of fish at once you might even think about having 2-3 QTs on hand. Larger fish will need bigger tanks as well. My QTs range from 20 to 75 gallons since I get a large number of fish at once.
Setting up the tank is easy if done correctly. The first thing is you want to keep it bare bottom. There is no need for any substrate nor décor. You will want to get a heater for the tank. I just use a clip on light from lowes/home depot for lighting. You don’t need light but it helps you see the fish better and look for problems. I just use the cfl spiral bulbs and it works great. The filter is the most important part. This will help make sure your QT is cycled. A HOB (hang on back) or sponge filter is preferred. I am a big fan of the aquaclear brand hobs or the hydro sponge filters. What you need to do is leave it running on your main tank. This way the bacteria is built up ready to go. When you get new fish just move it over to the QT. once the QT is over just move it back on to the main tank. If the fish happen to die I bleach the whole tank. I wash everything out and use a little prime to break down any extra bleach. I then leave everything out to dry. Once it’s fully dry you can put it back on the tank. It will take 3-4 weeks to fully seed again. You can jump start it by taking some media from one of the other filters for the QT filter. In some cases you can’t have an extra HOB filter going you can always leave your QT filter dry. When needed you just take some of the media from the filter and put on the QT filter.
These easy but important steps can help save your livestock and save you money in the long run.